And remember to clean off all dust on the car by hitting it with compressed air or using tack cloth. You may want to re-mask everything, because dust and paint on the used masking paper can find its way onto your new finish. People have had success with that in the past, but I have a feeling that doing the door jams would be hell and half compared to spraying it on. You'll have spent many hours preparing by now, and this is the moment you've all been waiting for! If you want to try rolling on the Rustoleum, be my guest. Spend as much time on this step as possible. If you do super crisp accurate masking, your paint job will look like the car was always that color. The quality of the mask job is immeasurably important. For big areas use quality masking paper or cardboard, and garbage bags work well for tires. Any important-looking labels inside the door that have important car informationĪgain, things like tail lights, head lights, rubber gaskets, car logos, etc should really be removed before you paint, or it will end up looking like a noob did it with finger paint.Radiator (believe me, it looks quite retarded if paint gets on there when you paint the front of the car).The inside of the car (you'll have the doors open when you paint).Rubber gaskets that you weren't able to remove in step 2.But never fear, masking tape is here! You'll need painters tape (blue) or extra strong auto masking tape (green) to cover all the areas that are already the right color. You don't want to paint your window now do you? No.that wouldn't be very smart. I had to replace a destroyed fender and bondo a big dent on the hood before painting, but it was a lot easier than you'd think. However, for small dents Bondo (or any number of superior, more expensive fillers) is really quite easy to use. If you don't want to do this, get a professional to do it but see if you can have him skip painting it to save money. It's also a good idear to handle any bodywork your car needs. This way you won't have to spray on 20 coats to cover it up. Also, use dark primer if your car color is dark (blue, green, black, etc) and lighter primer if the paint is lighter. You'll do well to make sure the primer is Rustoleum, to ensure compatibility (paint can act stupidly if it doens't like the primer). tools - these may include screw drivers, ratchet sets, allen wrenches, a can of liquid wrench Air compressor - big enough for the spray gun's requirements.Spray gun - bigger nozzle seems to work better.4" super-fine foam paint roller (optional).Sand paper - 120, 400, 800 grit (or the closest you can get).4 or more cans of Rustoleum auto primer spray paint.2-4 quarts (depending on size of car) of gloss Rustoleum - color of your choice.A car you're willing to ruin the paint job on.However you probably won't ruin your car unless you try. If you ruin your car, my condolences but remember, YOU did it. Other thoughts:Throughout the project I kept telling myself, "self, if this works out.you'll have to do an Instructable on it," and it worked out, so this is my first instructable. You will need a spray gun and air compressor, but if you don't you can still try rolling on the paint. I have a neighbor who has a paint shop in his garage, so I got to use his spray gun. But most of all, you can get a quart for under $5 at any hardware store, whereas automotive paint can be 20-50 times that much. Why?So why Rustoleum? Well, on the internet you can find people who rolled it on, and the cars look pretty good. The result? Pretty dang good, for the money. Except, I used a professional airgun and only 2 coats. Do you have a fun car that you just KNOW will go faster with a brand new paint job? This method is based on the idea of using a foam paint roller to put many layers of Rustoleum on your car.
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